A-Cold-Wall Men’s Spring 2023

Samuel Ross is taking his show on the road: This season, he staged a static presentation of the various collections and collaborations he’s been working on, including a new tie-up with Timberland.

In January, he plans to stage a runway show in Paris, because “there’s been a magnetic shift, and it’s the epicenter of fashion. The city is a bit more radical, more progressive than other places. Things move faster here,” he said.

Ross described his presentation, where colorful street looks hung from the ceilings of a sunny warehouse space, as a taster of the brand’s progress, and where it is headed.

His edgiest styles included shirts and jackets inset with fine wires so that collars, hems and cuffs could be sculpted by the wearer.

Not only were these styles moldable, they were textured and colorful, too, made from mesh, cotton and transparent technical fabric that had been spray- and hand- painted. Some of the more wild, color-splattered ones recalled works by Jackson Pollock.

Ross applied similar crafty techniques to other parts of the ready-to-wear collection and to his new collaboration with Timberland. He added faded, bleached-out stains and spots to Timberland workwear jackets and cargo pants, and said he wanted them to look worn-in and as if they’d developed their own patina over time.

Knits, sweatshirts and jersey tops were also sprayed, painted and distressed. Ross said he took some of those pieces, soaked them in a starch-based solution, stretched them out and then, when they were dry, coated them in powder.

The effect was tactile, like peeling paint, and gave these everyday, functional items a cool, arty spin.

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