Alexandre Vauthier amped it up and vamped it up this season, with a collection that played with proportion on suits and peek-a-boo with dresses.
Last season served as the bones of this collection, and he built upon the Art Deco codes and shapes of the ’30s with an added ’80s edge. Vauthier developed the silhouettes in thicker textiles such as silk and velvet, while silver sequins or bright slashes of blue peeked out to counteract any lingering sweetness.
“I wanted something stronger and sexier, because the last collection was a little bit romantic,” he said backstage after the show. Vauthier, who worked under Jean Paul Gaultier, distilled it down to his training. “Sometimes people say to me, ‘You’re obsessed with the ’80s,’ and maybe, because this is my generation, but it’s not about an influence, it’s that you have all the right techniques to create your own voice and at the right moment, you have the right voice.”
He nodded to the “Working Girl” power suit in all its pre-Girl Boss seriousness, but chopped the sleeves and cinched the waist for a less literal take. A “Texas Tuxedo” of acid washed double denim was given a sequined sheen but felt unnecessary because, as always, his gowns are the real star here.
It was all set to Grace Jones’ “Nightclubbing,” which worked perfectly with the disco ball bling. The latest looks will speak to celebrity stylists who love his gowns for the red carpet.