Auralee Spring 2023

Japanese brand Auralee made its return to Paris after more than two years away with a collection that explored lightweight layers of materials not generally associated with the warmer months like wool, mohair and cashmere.

For spring, the overarching idea was offering a versatile wardrobe that was elegant enough for urbane occasions while being unfussy enough to adapt to a variety of climate conditions, designer Ryota Iwai explained through a translator. Given the unpredictable weather in Paris, his lightweight layers of natural fibers were a desirable proposal.

Softly structured jackets were cut from tropical wools, sheer mohair knits were strategically layered, tube tops were paired with pleated skirts or layered over shirts. Cropped proportions anchored the lineup in current tropes, while bright tones of green, purple or orange gave depth to Iwai’s layering.

Rucksacks and climbing-inspired sneakers, a new chapter in the brand’s ongoing collaboration with New Balance, furthered the impression of being ready to head out at a moment’s notice.

If the sophistication of Iwai’s textile developments can translate through a screen, seeing — and touching — them turned these juxtapositions of breezy layers into a solid proposal.

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