Bach Mai Resort 2023

Emerging designer Bach Mai’s resort collection served as a continuation of his fall offering, displaying new expressions of Cy Twombly’s “Blooming” flower paintings.

“It’s this juxtaposition between this modern expressiveness and classic romanticism. We’re continuing this exploration of color and floral,” Mai said of his continued use of vibrant colors (this time more on the “G BIV” side of the rainbow) and the introduction of the brand’s first large-scale floral print.

The season set a slightly sportier tone than fall, offering a fusion of what Mai referred to as a “mix of ‘Bridgerton,’ but for the modern-day country club” — seen best across sculpted occasion dresses and more-so casual daywear (including a sleeveless version on his now-signature sculpted back bomber). In specialty occasionwear, new seasonal embroideries — ombre clear paillettes — pushed fall’s ombre admiration further, while an ombre Lurex velvet gown alluded to an Arthurian Lady on the Lake. (Additionally, a slight Space Age-meets-James Turrell idea could be seen through the artful look book backdrop, but that’s besides the point.)

The look: A dressy mix of florals, regency and subtle sport.

Quote of note: “This collection and the last we showed in February are actually coming into market together. The reason is our first collection was just released via press, and went to market in February, then we had another collection in February, so this is our catch up season. They’re designed to be merchandised together, each half and half of a rainbow,” Mai said.

Key pieces: Hand-painted floral moiré short playsuits and matching bombers (as well as leather play shorts); bias slips with smart, adjustable backside spaghetti strap toggles; sculptural volant ballgowns in new babydoll lengths, or as high-low gowns with dropped waists; an ombre paillette fringed bustier gown with silk organza bodice and contrast boning details (or a shorter fringed gilet with peak lapels).

The takeaway: The designer continued his ambitious focus and goal of bringing back the tradition of American couture through a smart, steady evolution of his dressy fashions.

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