Brunello Cucinelli Men’s Spring 2023

Nonchalant elegance. That was the key message at Brunello Cucinelli, who has been one of the first menswear designers to bank on a return of the suit. This, however, has evolved into a more leisurely style, he said, after almost two years of sweatpants and extreme comfort, locked down at home.

Aiming at this return to being more dressed-up, Cucinelli struck a balance between sophistication and comfort. Separates also added a more contemporary touch. Blazers were worn over T-shirts and combined with pants in different colors and textures for versatility. While patterns were few and far between, Cucinelli revisited some evergreen ones, such as pinstripes in a cool linen and cotton suit. There was also a utilitarian vibe throughout, which made the collection youthful and fresh. In fact, reaching out to a new customer, for the first time in 20 years the brand introduced the color black, but this was juxtaposed with off-white or beige so that it remained in line with the Cucinelli codes, such as a biker jacket contrasting with white cuffed pants.

A knitted Bermuda pantsuit in burgundy was eye-catching and Cucinelli this season experimented more with color, such as ginger, sage, salmon, sunflower yellow and periwinkle, enhanced by the natural fibers and mélange effects and three-dimensional textures.

Cucinelli’s signature craftsmanship was also seen in the feather-light sweaters, which reinterpreted the breezy style of polo shirts.

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