Craig Green Men’s Spring 2023

Craig Green has a lot of baggage – but it’s physical rather than emotional.

He loves a superstructure, and creative scaffolding around his clothing. This season he used everyday objects – suitcases, ladders, stirrups and parachutes – to adorn his workwear silhouettes, and to transmit the idea of “the useful man progressing into the future,” and the point where “man and myth” overlap.

Green was, of course, thinking about the show venue, the Museum of Mankind in the Trocadéro Gardens, and also about the point where men stop dreaming about how they’ll look when they’re all grown up.

Stirrups and straps dangled from coats and jackets in white or dusty chalk shades, while some models wore ladders or parachutes on their backs. Others accessorized with suitcases that didn’t open.

Some of Green’s baggage served a practical purpose: patches on jackets and coats transformed into zipper bags that could hold a blazer, while models’ sandals came flat-packed, and later woven around the foot.

All those flaps and straps and metal objects recalled the early 20th century Italian Futurist painters and their love of technology, machinery and the nuts and bolts of industry.

Green is equally passionate about mechanics, and how certain shapes and materials can make a statement and enhance the lives of the people who wear them.

While it might be difficult to stride down the streets of London with so many household accessories jangling around, the actual clothes looked pretty easy to pull off: trouser suits with tunic tops; coats made from papery tarpaulin (one of Green’s all-time favorite materials). and fuzzy Muppet-y sweaters with cutouts.

And there is no doubt those dramatic padded or quilted coats in a rainbow of apricot, mint and gray will serve as a soft armor for all those men charging optimistically into the future.

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