David Koma Resort 2023

When Georgian-born designer David Koma is having a creative block, he returns to the altar of Madonna for a pick me up.

“I do look a lot at powerful female performers that I listen to,” he said in his design studio in Shoreditch, mentioning Spanish singer Rosalía’s album as his inspiration for his racing and motorsport pre-fall 2022 collection.

For the man who dresses some of the most eminent stars of the red carpet — including Jennifer Lopez, Olivia Rodrigo and Gal Gadot — the party has already started in house. The brand has “managed to constantly grow” during the pandemic and it’s now reveling in the moment by doing what it does best: dressing for the occasion.

This season he’s looking at duality — knitwear versus partywear; dark versus light, and the volcanic islands and snow-covered mountain ranges for the backdrop of his resort 2023 look book.

Fabrics come across as a trompe-l’oeil, the hard lace corset dress is actually delicately soft to scrunch up; floral prints hand transferred onto rubber deconstructed organza as the base for a second naked skin; layered knitwear in pink cashmere and mohair.

Koma has been dabbling in lingerie to discover a soft sexiness opposed to the in-your-face sensuality that’s become part of his brand DNA.

“It’s been quite a while that I had the lingerie aspect on my mood board,” he said, referring to the stretch lace bodysuits and dresses; long mesh opera gloves, and draped off ruffles that loosely bounce.

“I always say, I feel no matter what, luxury is like chocolate, it’s always going to be in,” he said.

Koma’s demi couture dresses are his bread and butter, but for a second season, he’s fixating on the shoes on the back of the success of the thigh-high boots with a crystalized garter.

The new subcategory to his brand has been 10 years in the making, with all footwear now made in Italy.

The new range reaches pelvic levels in shades of chromatic, brown leather and lizard green.

There’s no holding back on the power of sex for Koma — not even in the one conservative look that’s modestly covered up, but carries the sultry attitude of his brand.

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