Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2023

Giorgio Armani wrapped his runway theater with a projection of wicker for his latest Emporio show, giving his guests the feeling of being plopped inside a giant picnic basket.

That potent symbol of summertime idyll foreshadowed an appealing and breezy Emporio Armani collection fit for destination weddings, a stroll in the park, dinner on a terrace, or a chic beach party. Nothing smacked of work commitments or corporate stress, though the tailoring was smart enough for a steamy day on Wall Street.

Armani opened the display with loose navy layers, some printed with broken pinstripes. His full-legged pants opened up at the bottom, airing the ankles and showing off his version of the bulbous, squishy foam shoes championed by the likes of Kanye West and Matthew Williams. Armani’s resembled clumps of bucatini, or coarsely woven wool.

Half-moon sunglasses and asymmetrical necklines were reminiscent of the designer’s glory days in the ‘80s, but he also hit on the trends and items gathering steam in Milan: loose cargo pants, cropped camp shirts and bohemian, surfer-dude grooviness. Punctuating the latter idea, a dancer in a tie-dye blazer and pajama-like pants closed the show, flaunting taut abs and flailing his long dreadlocks.

But for a detour into Stabilo yellows and greens, this confident show oozed that classic Armani ease: featherweight seersucker jackets wafting over bare skin, sweatshirts daubed with Impressionist seaside scenes, and blousons in necktie prints matched to loose trousers.

Guests at the show were invited to cross the street and take in an exhibition of Magnum photography at the Armani Silos, a good number of them snapped on seasides around the world. All that was missing from this pleasant fashion picnic were the sandwiches.

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