Erdem Men’s Spring 2023

Erdem Moralioglu has pulled on his gardening gloves for spring: his latest resort collection was inspired by Constance Spry, the educator, author and gardening guru who arranged the flowers for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. For menswear, he turned to Cedric Morris, the 20th century British painter of the natural world who spent his spare time breeding irises.

“His artwork is so modern, and has such a sense of color and romance,” said the designer, who was also inspired by Morris’ lifestyle; his home in Suffolk, England, and his paintings.

This collection was awash in saturated crayon shades and covered with flower and vine patterns.

Models wore mohair sweaters with fuzzy-edged floral patterns, and tonal looks that included wide-leg trousers, button-front shirts and short dandy-ish silk neckties meant to resemble irises. The colors came straight from the fruit truck, such as tangerine, grape and blueberry.

Tone-on-tone vine embroidery wound its way over a gabardine suit, while bouquets of white, yellow and purple wildflowers burst to life on cabana-style suits and swimming trunks.

The ‘40s mood of the collection shone through not only in the high-waisted wide-leg trousers but also in the long and silky dressing gown coats and pajama sets (perfect for a late morning amble through the garden).

A lightweight yellow-ish tweed suit, worn with a shirt the color of a purple iris, channelled Morris’ more formal, professional style, as did a creamy linen suit with wide-leg trousers and “E” for Erdem on the jacket pocket. The latter was cool as a fruit-filled Pimm’s Cup on a steamy summer’s day.

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