Hermès Men’s Spring 2023

The living is easy at Hermès, which showed off a collection of summery gelato tones and radiated sunshine on an otherwise gray and drizzly Paris day.

Véronique Nichanian said that she wanted this collection to be “all about holiday – not the city. It’s about lightness and having fun, pop colors, and the natural world.”

The show, which took place outside, on the grounds of the historic tapestry factory Manufacture des Gobelins, was pure escapism for guests, many of whom were wearing hooded khaki raincoats that Hermès staffers distributed at the entrance to the show.

By contrast, models were dressed for déjeuner at Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, or aperitivo hour at Villa d’Este. They wore sunshine yellow twin-sets, and marine-themed tops, including a short-sleeved cashmere sweater with a crayfish on the front, and a roomy white shirt with a big blue seahorse.

Short, cotton jackets came with seaweed patterns and beachy-bright cotton canvas bags had a palm tree print and rope handles. Windbreakers, shiny lightweight parkas and bucket hats came in a rainbow of colors, including lilac, grapefruit, and aqua.

These weren’t so much for rainy days, but for the salty spray on the deck of a yacht as it cuts through the Mediterranean.

Nichanian also set out to replicate the ripples of a swimming pool, with crinkly stripes on tailored jackets and the wobbly wave design on a roomy white turtleneck with a big beige sun on the front. Hopefully the real thing will return to Paris soon.

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