Kiko Kostadinov Men’s Spring 2023

Kiko Kostadinov presented a strong spring collection full of reversible pieces, as he continued turning inward, to mine his own personal history and that of his birth country, as well as outward, toward today’s world while creating fashion.

The Bulgarian-born, London-based designer skillfully plied an exercise of style, revisiting silhouettes, sometimes numerous times, to fresh effect.

The tight lineup opened with a reversible, camel-color collarless suit with classic tailoring, followed by the same style with inside-out trousers, showing a pinstripe lining. A third iteration had the jacket in reverse.

Garments were made in materials such as jersey, checked seersucker, fleece and Suri alpaca, often in muted colors. Drawstrings or snaps could shape-shift looks.

Kostadinov homed in on the Ottoman rule of Bulgaria as a reference. Jannisary uniforms, with draping, helped inform certain garments. There were 1920s winks and nods to artists Zlatyu Boyadzhiev and Danh Vo’s work, as well.

A green boilersuit with foil and jacquard patches — giving a modern camo impression — and copper rivets consolidated various themes running through the collection.

“It’s always fun doing these pieces, because you can play with someone’s perception,” Kostadinov said.

Footwear this season included a tongue-less sneaker atop an Asics sole.

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