Malion Vintage RTW and Men’s Fall 2022

A newcomer to Tokyo Fashion Week, Malion Vintage uses vintage clothing as fabrics, cutting pieces up and repurposing them into new, unique items that speak both to the past and to the present. For their first runway show, designers Eriko Ishida and Aki Shimizu spliced together fabrics in similar colors and textures to create pieces with a visual depth.

The design duo showed long skirts, oversized shirts and loose pants created from patchworks of silky fabrics. Tweeds were put together in a similar way to make tube tops, wide-legged trousers and double-breasted blazers in shades of gray or brown. Chunky cable knits in off-white were pieced together into a cropped V-neck sweater and a pouf-y, shearling-trimmed jacket. Delicate, sheer skirts and halter tops, as well as a few long fringed skirts made from vintage neckties, lent a sexiness to the oversized silhouettes.

While the concept shows promise and the designers turned out some interesting pieces, overall the show felt repetitive, with most styles appearing in multiple colorways. It would have made more of an impact as a well-edited, capsule-sized collection. The men’s items also lacked creativity and felt like an afterthought, leading to the question of if they should have been included at all.

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