Maxime Simoëns RTW Spring 2023

Maxime Simoëns nodded to his heterogenous résumé with a collection that spliced his experience in couture with elements of the urban wardrobe he explored with men’s label MX Paris in more recent years. “It’s a mix of my trajectory,” summed up the designer, who last year relaunched his namesake label with a genderless collection. “I wanted to design pieces that have elements of originality, but are easy to wear,” he said. “I’m getting more and more pleasure out of designing wearable pieces.”

Much of the lineup had a lighter touch than in the past, with pretty of florals working hand in hand with crisp and airy monochrome looks, including pleated dresses, drawstring pants and boxy shirts. A rose motif featured in giant placements on separates and dresses, or on a jacquard bomber jacket, and there was also a dreamy cloud motif in sunset pastel shades.

More akin to his register of years gone by, there were body-hugging pieces draped with gold chain details. Elsewhere, the hardware was reprised as a detail.

Each piece is numbered and produced in no more than 50 units, aiming to cultivate the rarity factor, and certain designs repurpose looks from Simoëns men’s collection, which was last presented for spring 2020.

Between 2010 and 2015, Simoëns garnered a following among the celebrity set with his sexy, graphic dresses, showing on the ready-to-wear or couture calendars in Paris, depending on the season. After shuttering that business, in June 2016 he created urban men’s label MX Paris. He was also artistic director for Azzaro between 2017 and 2019, and subsequently designed for Paule Ka for a single season.

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