For someone who witnessed — and contributed his fair share of defining — ‘90s minimalism, seeing its resurgence in recent years has been something of a relief for Neil Barrett.
He now has more reasons to believe the decade’s fashion, with its unfussy and utilitarian bent, is still “relevant and resonant” today.
For his spring 2023 show, the designer cast a strong pack of fresh faces, Gen Zers with the cunning look of “Euphoria” types alongside old glories, fixtures of Prada shows in the ‘90s, to appear in his seven-minute video set on sandy dunes inside his industrial showroom.
He homed in on his fashion nature, defined by exacting silhouettes, sharp tailoring and military inflections, here reimagined for extreme summer heat.
Barrett had cargo pants cut out at the knees; eyelets punctuating T-shirts, sweats and pants on the chest, armpits, and hem, and net and cotton tops, looking as if the latter fabric had melted midway through the torso – his penchant for mixed media out in force.
An eyelet fabric punctuated with geometric embroideries that echoed coding software was crafted into sharp suits, the shiny rayon pants cut loose.
Barrett insisted this was no decorative collection, the utilitarian details actually there to serve a function. Milan’s 95 degree Fahrenheit weather proved they may come in handy sooner rather than later.