Nina Ricci RTW Spring 2023

Nina Ricci continues to look to the past to inform its future, seeking to write its next chapter. Led by Nana Baehr, the label’s design studio channeled the house’s archives, notably Robert Ricci’s fascination with mythology and feminine codes, to offer up an airy, playful collection.

There was plenty of opportunity to show some skin, whether through super-cropped panty-style shorts, cute in ice-dye silk and matching shirt with a billowing detachable cape, or minimalist with a circular cut plunge-back jersey dress.

The label’s protective cocoon-like silhouettes were transposed on a suit jacket for the first time, in lightweight pale pink wool, offered as a series of short summer capes for an alternative take on a cropped top, or worked as a strapless dress with circles of fabric.

Floral prints were blurred, turning into splotches of color in bright pastels like petals whose dye had bled onto the fabric below. More literal, exuberant 3D tulle blossoms flounced across the chest, tied on with barely there straps.

It was the second season designed by the studio after the January exit of former artistic directors Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter. Within the next few months, the Puig-owned house intends to name a new creative director, who will show a first collection next January with a mooted return to the runway. It is also toying with the idea of collaborations, according to a brand spokesperson, who highlighted that Robert Ricci, who tied up with Andy Warhol among others, was a precursor in this domain.

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