Prune Goldschmidt Spring 2023

This season, Bordeaux-based designer Prune Goldschmidt turned to the sunnier climes of Morocco as one of the key influences for her collection. Classic dresses come in bright yellow and terra cotta, tassels appear as cheeky accents on blouses, a nod to browsing the medinas there. A pant and shirt set is on offer in a dusty sand, with slight nips at the ankle to create loose volume.

The bright colors of Marrakech’s Jardin Majorelle are translated into a Matisse-style blue and white print. She also developed a naïve sketch of palm trees and camels into a bold graphic that evokes an air of childhood play, which is shown on trenches and short suits, and used as piping against crisp poplin shirts. Caftans are given a slightly nipped-in waist and fuller skirt to add more definition to the shape and add a bit of swish. The tiny tweaks register as feminine and free.

A sleeveless version of what has become her signature high ruffled collar is translated into a sharp-shouldered shirtdress and a neutral trench. Some items have a school girl bent with flounce or pouf touches, while a masculine tuxedo is available — ensuring that Goldschmidt covers all the bases.

Goldschmidt reveals that she comes from a family that used to own textile mills in the north of France, which sheds light on why she obsesses more over fabric and fit than creating anything rebellious. In the end that’s the strength of the brand, which offers quiet consistency and wearable pieces.

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