Ujoh RTW Fall 2022

Mitsuru Nishizaki shot the video of his fall show in a cruise ship terminal outside of Tokyo, with the view of the bayside skyline from the floor-to-ceiling windows as his backdrop. The choice of venue was reflected in certain elements of his collection, such as jackets that featured removable collars that resembled sailor shirts. These were just one example of what the designer called a “new step for Ujoh…a new style of tailoring” that saw him turn out a variety of convertible pieces with multiple styling options.

Nishizaki used new fabrics and textures, such as a sheer polyester mesh that was lightweight, yet had a structured look to it. He said his use of the material was inspired by recycled glass, and he crafted it into long, zippered coats, such as a sky blue version that he layered over a black-and-white gingham dress, creating a subtle depth and complexity. Another unique textile that appeared in the collection was a stiff wool and nylon blend that looked like denim and was used in pieces that took inspiration from traditional workwear. There was also a zip-front miniskirt, which Nishizaki layered unzipped over coordinating pants.

Some men’s jackets had sleeves that could be removed so they could be worn as half or full sleeves. Others had ribbed knit collars for a subtly sporty look, and wool coats were styled like moto jackets with diagonal zippers. White shirts had necktie-like collars, and dresses were created from two separate pieces that can be worn together alone for a unique, asymmetric look. But as original as the styles were, there was also a classic sensibility to them. The luxe textures and mostly neutral hues lent them a timelessness that was unexpected for such unconventional shapes.

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