Esotericism provided a rich semiotic dreamscape for Zuhair Murad this season. Tarot signs, an all-seeing eye and horoscope symbols exploded across his colorful collection, providing ample opportunity to play with the lavish adornments he does best.
“I am really attached to this world, and I am curious to know about the future and about this world that is really mysterious and really old, you know. You don’t know if it’s true or not, or the meaning, and I love signs and symbols,” explained the designer backstage before the show.
“Fortune teller” was splashed in bronze across the front of one gown with a sweetheart neckline, bursting silver-star embroideries spilling across its full tulle skirt. Less literal, such mystical characters were also referenced in layered gypsy skirts in ruffles of tulle and silk turbans in an array of jewel tones.
In vivid red and green, he draped his silk with flair, adding touches of embroidery to shoulders or waistlines — a pair of hands that appeared to dangle like belt tassels were a nod to palmistry.
A crop top with a central eye, a sequined bodysuit or allover embroidered pants offered a lively contemporary spin on the look, while a velvet-bodice number with a circular skirt featuring the astrology wheel embroidered in silver would make a statement on the red carpet.